At 6am the radio woke me with a good forecast and I dressed swiftly, keen to get going and make good use of the day. Emerging from my shelter I had to hold my breath and keep moving smartly to avoid being massacred by the clouds of midges which greeted us as we got up and packed our gear. Breakfast seems less important than usual when you know that it will be garnished with small insects and we took to the water rather more quickly than usual. It was a pleasant close reach in a F 1-2 under cloudy skies with some brighter spells. Passing between the nearby smaller islands and Skye was superb. The tide lifted us along and once we had turned north to head for the Narrows of Raasay the wind was following and the sea virtually flat; both the characteristic Cuillin mountain scenery and seeing porpoises breaching the surface of the water completed the perfect experience. After seven miles and having been in the canoes over two and a half hours without breakfast we called a brunch-stop, pulling ashore near Raasay Narrows onto a lovely pebble beach above crystal clear water.
We could now see the headland which protects Portree and also hid our ultimate goal and destination until the last few minutes. Back on the water an hour later, although excited about our imminent success, we were still able to enjoy a last potter amongst the small off-lying rocks beneath the towering headland before heading in towards the perfect natural harbour of Portree with its brightly-painted buildings as a backdrop. ‘One of them will be a hotel with a bar to celebrate the trip’ was one thought that crossed my mind as I led the way in to land on the harbour’s beach. I have since learned that the chaps contrived for me to lead the way in, because the trip was my idea originally; I am touched that they should think the gesture important. The final leg of the journey had been about 16 miles and sailed in four and a half hours.
It was quite sad to fully derig the boats for the first time in more than 10 days and repack our gear for the drive home. A pint and fish and chips served to keep us going; my catching a bus to get the car and trailer, loading up and a shower at the local swimming pool being the other tasks, before heading for the ferry and hitting the long road south.
Overall the venture had provided a huge variety of experiences and in so many ways. It was a chance to find out the capabilities of the sailing canoe on tidal waters. This was so much of an unknown for us that it led to constant excited tension in me and probably the others too. At each turn of events there had often been calculations and judgments to be made which if we had got them wrong may have had serious and potentially life-threatening consequences. I always find sorting out the tides and navigation on any sea passage fascinating and the challenge of actually sailing and paddling the canoe for the purpose of the journey, especially this route with its historical connections was particularly satisfying. Add to all this the aesthetic rewards of completing the journey and the scenery through which we had travelled and you may begin to understand that I consider these ten days to have been amongst the better experiences of my life so far and something about which I am rather proud.
Keith Morris