Any idea that a trip was all sweetness and light winds would be deceptive of course, and only a few hours after that sunset our fortunes changed once more. The idea had been that we would get some rest while it was dark and probably continue shortly after dawn, if the conditions were okay. During our overnight bivouac the forecast light drizzle and mist developed into steady rain for which we had foolishly not prepared resulting in two of us getting a bit wet; we needed shelter and to dry out, so at dawn (4.30am!) we packed up and headed the few miles north to Mallaig in what initially seemed to be only a light breeze, but which quickly grew into a Force 3-4, gusting 5. This meant we were again on the edge of what we had learned was feasible or sensible with our boats. Although only a few yards from the rocky shoreline the sense of exposure was great, surfing fast down the waves and fighting at times to avoid broaching or burying in the waves, which we were able to overtake even using our smallest sail area; (our average speed for that short hop was around 5 mph).

The sense of relief on sneaking into the shelter of the harbour was very real, but what put a complete damper on the whole situation was having to wait for several hours huddled from the rain in the biggest shop doorway we could find, for the first warm and dry establishment to open (the excellent Fisherman’s Mission). We described ourselves as “Destitute in Mallaig!” but at least we were then in easy sight of Skye on the far side of which was our ultimate goal.